Château Rieussec 2008

This cuts a broad swath, with dense fig, piecrust, green almond and golden raisin notes held together by ginger cream and tarte Tatin notes. The long, creamy finish lets a coconut milk hint check in. One for the cellar. Best from 2014 through 2025.

Intense yellow with a linden-green sheen. Incredibly grapey bouquet, perfumed nose with freshly picked apricots, Burgundian vanilla, dancing and absolutely pure. Crystal-clear attack on the palate, white nectarines, creamy sweetness, acidity almost reminiscent of Granny Smith, incredibly long. “Spontaneously the best Rieussec of my life!” (René Gabriel)

Intense yellow with linden-green highlights. Incredibly grapey bouquet, a perfumed nose with freshly picked apricots, Burgundian vanilla, dancing on the nose and absolutely pure. Bell-clear attack on the palate, showing almost Granny Smith notes in the acidity, white nectarines, a bound, creamy sweetness, incredibly long. Gabriel’s spontaneous note: “The best Rieussec of my life!”

At this stage, the preference will be for the freshness and indulgent character of the fine and delicate (not overly sweet) 2008 compared with the opulent and very rich 2009 vintage.

Medium-bodied attack, elegant and refined, superb noble rot, complex, long and racy.

Green-yellow color. Fruity, discreet nose. Soft, smooth, silky, melting palate with a hint of vanilla. Good length, flavorful.

92-94 Barrel sample. Rich rather than sweet, this is stuffed full of botrytis. The wine is powered through with this dusty texture, rolling richly but catching the dried fruit character.

The 2008 Rieussec is a blend of 86% Semillon, 12% Sauvignon Blanc and 2% Muscadelle picked from 29 September until 14 November over four or five pickings. The nose seems to have shut down since I last encountered it in 2012, quite earthy and resinous, lacking some spark. The palate is much better with sour lemon and quince on the entry, a touch of patisserie, strangely making me think of Danish pastry through to the well-defined finish. This 2008 is a little difficult to figure out at the moment, perhaps overshadowed by the succeeding vintage. Tasted April 2016.