Domaine Taupenot-Merme : Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru 2017

This is one of Romain Taupenot's oldest vineyards, planted in 1948. Mazoyères seems to have fared better in the hot conditions of 2017 than neighbouring Charmes-Chambertin, as this wine has more acidity and depth than its stablemate, with good tension and depth with layers of sappy, chalky, dark berry fruit.

In tank and will be bottled in February. Has the Morey character, says Romain Taupenot. Darker and more peppery than the Charmes-Chambertin with just a hint of dark chocolate. Dark on the palate, peppery spice yet even in this darker character it has a slight floral note. Darkly refined in its fruit profile. There a slight charry smokiness, a little closed in on itself. Super-fine texture, like layers of paper. Long and refined. (JH)

The 2017 Mazoyeres-Chambertin Grand Cru has a glorious bouquet of briary, blackberry and cranberry scents, plus a touch of sous-bois in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins that belie the structure. Fresh and full of energy, this fans out nicely toward the chalky-textured finish, yet with time in the glass it does lose a bit of energy, which is why I docked a point. Closure is Diam 30 Organic. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.

A racy palate for this Mazoyères with a licorice nose; the finish is slightly saline, and it only lacks the crystalline precision of the very best.