Fonseca : Guimaraens Vintage 2018

The 2018 Guimaraens Vintage Port is a field blend that comes in with 98 grams of residual sugar. It was aged in large wooden vats for approximately 18 months. This is essentially made like the Vintage Port, just not declared. That gets you a good price, if not quite the same quality. Still, this is a very fine Guimaraens, showing off good fruit and structure. It is a bit lean. It will be drinkable soon and hold for a few decades. It may not be the brightest star in 2060, but I predict it will still be alive and kicking. Still, I wouldn't quite treat this as a serious vin de garde.

Warm, soft-edged and generally open, with a core of steeped plum, blackberry preserve and blueberry reduction flavors leading the way, backed by hints of ganache and licorice root on the finish that add a grippier feel. More bass than treble, but well-packed and should age well. Best from 2030 through 2045. 4,700 cases made, 100 cases imported.

This shows both power and delicacy, with spiced black cherries and mulberries as well as notes of walnut and chocolate. Hints of mushroom, too. Very sweet and dense with plush tannins, coating the deep core of dark fruit. It’s structured, long and seamless. Try after 2025.

The 2018 Guimaraens Vintage Port, the first release since 2015, has a rich and opulent bouquet with black cherries, stewed figs and dates. It has a little more warmth than the Quinta da Roeda 2018 tasted alongside, certainly one of the more decadent aromatics. The palate is sweet and fleshy on the entry with black fruit, tar, desiccated orange peel, Christmas cake and juniper berries. I admire the harmony of this Vintage Port. The firm structure only becomes apparent toward the finish. Wonderful length on the aftertaste, the mouth stained with Port for 60 seconds after. Excellent.

Violets, licorice, coffee and cassis on the seductively balanced, complex nose. Very well-supporting acidity and tannins on the palate, fine fruit structure, licorice, cassis, cherry and chocolate. Long, fresh-complex finish. Together with the 1976, the best Fonseca Guimarãens and my price-performance winner of the 2018 vintage. They could have made a full-fledged Fonseca Vintage Port out of it!