Bouchard Père & Fils : Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand cru 2020

Produced with fruit purchased from the same parcel each year, located at the top of the slope just under the tree line. In 2020, the grapes were picked on 29 August and underwent the customary vinification: half whole clusters, very gentle pump-overs, and ultimately two winters in cask, half new. The result is lighter than this producer's Chambertin, with bright raspberry and red cherry aromas tinged with floral notes. There is plenty of finesse, although it is perhaps lacking a bit of the density one expects in this appellation.

Deep, dark and smoky nose that's still quite closed. Gigantic structure and fantastic cherry fruit on the rich and deeply harmonious palate. Still very youthful, but this gives you the full Gevrey Grand Cru experience, with all the earthy power, spicy complexity and a touch of bitter chocolate. Expansive and creamy finish with very impressive, plush tannins. This was made from bought-in grapes from an almost 1-hectare plot in this cult site. Drink or hold.

Not a domaine wine but every year the vines come from exactly the same location within the climat, fairly close to the little house with Clos de Bèze on it. Fred can choose the date of harvest. The last vineyard to be picked, on 28 August in 2020. 30% whole bunch and a longer maceration than most at 20 days. This is another wine Weber regards as delicate! Only 'eight or nine' barrels produced. Mid crimson. Pale rim – paler than one might expect. Subtle, energetic nose. Still quite tannic (unlike the rest of this range from Bouchard Père et Fils) but with genuinely interesting, complex fruit. Dry finish after a spicy cocktail of fruit. Great drive! It's so accessible it's tempting to drink it now. But I'm sure it will develop even more interest with time. Of course, it's always possible that it will close down completely during the rest of this current decade… (JR)

Aromatic elegance incarnate, with a little less velvety texture than Chapelle, but greater resolve in the tannic backbone, and likely a slower evolution than Bonnes Mares. It would truly be criminal here not to wait fifteen or twenty years.