Deutz : Cuvée William Deutz 2002

Sleek and elegant, with a fine, creamy bead supporting flavors of blackberry pie, clover honey, ground cardamom and glazed apricot. A smoke-tinged, minerally underpinning echoes on the finish. Drink now through 2027. 5,000 cases made, 33 cases imported.

Pinot Noir from vineyards in Aÿ, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Bouzy, Louvois and Ambonnay; 27% Chardonnay from vineyards in Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, with a small proportion from the Montagne de Reims; 11% Pinot Meunier from vineyards in Pierry and Chatillon-sur-Marne. Disgorged 2014, TA 4.7 g/l (expressed as sulphuric), pH 3. A light cedary note and a touch of honey already, fresh ginger too, even a light note of red cherry. Purity and freshness with a nice balance between the off-dry character and bright acidity. A little more yeasty, even smoky, on the palate. Very fine texture. To be completely honest, I find a little too much sweetness on the finish even though the acidity helps to balance the richness. Were it not for this, I would have scored it a little higher. (JH)

Another open-knit, radiant wine, the 2002 Cuvée William Deutz is quite expressive today. Honey, almonds, dried pears, chamomile, mint and crushed flowers blossom effortlessly. There is plenty of vintage 2002 generosity, especially on the finish, where the wine offers notable richness, creaminess and unctuosity. Already a bit forward, with plenty of vintage’s exoticism, the 2002 is probably best enjoyed over the next handful of years. The 2002 is 62% Pinot Noir (from Aÿ, Mareuil-sur Aÿ, Bouzy, Louvois and Ambonnay), 27% Chardonnay (mostly from Avize and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger) and 11% Pinot Meunier (from Peirry and Chatillon-sur-Marne).

Light yellow with golden hues, delicate mousse. Scents of ripe apple, delicate pear and patisserie notes followed by a mellow, subtle herbal spiciness, yellow stone fruit nuances and a whiff of honey. Sweet pear touch on the palate superseded by greengage plums, some honey, taut acidity flanked by a fine citrus touch with a saline finish. A multi-faceted, approachable food companion.

Predominantly made from Pinot Noir with Chardonnay and a little bit of Pinot Meunier, the 2002 Cuvée William Deutz Brut Millésimé is another highlight of the estate, if not the appellation. The bouquet of this Millésime is bright, very clear, fresh, aromatic and complex, whereas on the palate this is the quintessence of finesse, subtlety, purity and elegance. Sure, this is a structured wine, but it is made like a perfectly shaped antique Greek statue or a jewel. Everything here is perfectly interwoven and nothing stands out except the whole composition, which is perfectly balanced. The bouquet shows finest caramel and spicy oak notes along with white flowers and fine fruit flavors, whereas the palate of this medium-bodied and linear wine is firmly structured, fresh and absolutely delicate. The finish is pure and elegant, as well as complex and long. I would drink this outstanding champagne for its own merits.