Joseph Drouhin : Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru "Morgeot" Marquis de Laguiche 2022

Contract with the Drouhins dates from 1943 and has been exclusive to them since 1947. Picked 2–5 September. Cask sample. Deep flavours thanks to very small berries. Quite luxurious depth of flavour. Not quite the lift of the Genevrières but it will probably outlast it. (JR)

The 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru (Marquis de Laguiche) is one of the more outgoing, tropical-tinged aromatics among the Morgeot '22s—pineapple and guava, light mango and tinned peach scents, actually all quite seductive. There is certainly no blowsiness here. The palate is well balanced with a very vanillary opening that comes as a bit of a shock. Heavy-handed use of oak fashions an unashamed commercial Chassagne, which is a pity, because at the moment that occludes what is a fine wine underneath. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.