M. Chapoutier : De l'Orée 2017

Seductive and concentrated, with star fruit, spiced apple and peach notes boasting floral lift and salty density. A hint of toasted brioche plays out on the silky palate, which is filigreed with green herbs. The finish goes on and on, offering freshness and lushness in equal measure. Delicious. Drink now through 2033.

Rich and opulent on the nose, with yellow peach and honeycomb. Very full-bodied, with that immediate internal sweet ripeness of fruit that often marks out this cuvée. Good balancing acidity here, with real intensity of concentrated sappy fruits. Huge length, impressive power and a great mineral expression. It coats the mouth, and somehow stays fresh despite its richness. Old-vine Marsanne (over 70 years old) grown on the pebbly, sand and clay soils of the lieu-dit Les Murets. 80% is matured in demi-muid for 11 months, 15% new oak, and the rest in stainless steel. 2017 is an exceptional year for de l'Orée.

The freshness and vibrantly focused style here are super impressive. A stony and flinty nose leads to notes of freshly baked bread crust, white peaches, lemons and grapefruit, with nicely delivered oak spice and nuttiness. The palate has a very composed core with fine, powerful and focused flavors of peaches, pears and grapefruit, and a minerally, focused, lightly spiced finish. Drink or hold.

Pale gold. Intense, sharply delineated aromas of fresh nectarine, pear nectar, orange, honey and pungent flowers, along with a smoky mineral overtone. Deeply pitched citrus and orchard fruit, peach liqueur and honeysuckle flavors stain the palate and become deeper with air, picking up a hint of toasted almonds and showing powerful back-end cut. The mineral and honey notes repeat emphatically on a strikingly long, focused finish that leaves juicy pear and floral notes behind.

Brought up in just 18% new French oak, with 15% in stainless steel, the 2017 Ermitage de L’Orée is a big, rich, exotic effort that has loads of caramelized citrus, white flowers, green almonds, and licorice aromas and flavors. A wine that changes with time in the glass, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a rounded, layered texture, and a great finish. As with the Le Méal, it’s made in a slightly more fresh, focused style that’s going to benefit from short-term cellaring.

A composed wine, without heaviness of style. The élevage is spot-on, with a hint of reduction. It retains freshness and salinity.

There are a substantial 909 cases of the 2017 Ermitage de l'Orée. Sourced from Les Murets' clay soils, it combines hints of struck flint with honey, pear and baking spices on the nose. Full-bodied, with a layered sense of richness and ample concentration, it's a big but balanced wine. While it lacks the zest and freshness of the 2016, it should still drink well for close to two decades.