M. Chapoutier : Le Méal 2004

Has fine purity for the vintage, with silky-textured red cherry, raspberry and plum fruit flavors intertwined with mineral, light cocoa and floral notes. Gains weight through the lengthy finish. Best from 2008 through 2017. 240 cases made, 85 cases imported.

Dark red. Intense cherry and smoked meat aromas, with deep espresso and black cardamom accents. Brooding but sweet, with slowly unfolding red and dark berry flavors verging on liqueur-like. “This site got a lot of sun,” noted commercial director Morel. Powerful, dense and long on the finish, with a potent lingering blackcurrant quality. Give this some time.

Le Méal is said to be the warmest terroir on the Hermitage hill, and thus it is no surprise that this bottling fared the best in the challenging 2004 vintage. Flamboyant, creamy waves of raspberry fruit flood the palate, bringing hints of meat, smoke and pepper along for the ride and developing lovely soft tannins on the caressing finish. Approachable now, but should age well through 2020.