M. Chapoutier : Le Méal 2022

High-toned, remarkably smooth, full-bodied and concentrated with marked acidity. Tannins are blocky and robust, but certainly ripe. Actually very elegant in fruit, with remarkable depth, power and freshness and a long finish, which is impressive considering the vintage conditions. Vines are around 50 years old, fermented in concrete, aged in recently used oak barrels for around 14 months.

Cask sample. Juicy and chewy on the nose, there is real tension here and a nose that is fighting with itself between expressive fruit and a steely, graphite-like tension. The tannins are firm yet supple and are currently framing the core of the wine. Dense and layered, showing lots of character and needs time. (AC)

The 2022 Ermitage Le Méal is gorgeous. While the barrel sample tasted last year accentuated its floral qualities, the finished version kicks off with boatloads of graphite, followed by ripe black plum, black cherry, cedar and a flicker of licorice. Complex and deep, the full-bodied 2022 is a polished Le Méal. I suspect it won’t require as much time to come around as the L'Ermite from the same vintage. Although rich and concentrated, the 2022 imparts sufficient freshness to keep it all in check and winds down with endurance on the complex finish.

Chewy, rich and stylish at the same time, with powerful bolts of iron girding a large frame. The textural harmony is impressive, with savory tension and energy pulsing throughout, keeping the finish racy and firm. Tobacco leaf, black pepper, grilled garrigue and alder smoke complete the broad-shouldered package. Best from 2027 through 2042. 5 cases imported.

One of the highest points in Chapoutier's lineup this year, the 2022 Ermitage Le Méal evokes aromas of violet, lilac, spices, pepper and dark berries. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and layered, it's more charming than Monier de la Sizeranne with a fleshier core of fruit and more harmonious, velvety tannins, concluding with a floral, ethereal finish. Delicately crafted and refined on the palate, this wine was fermented with 15% whole bunches and aged in a significant proportion of large barrels, 25% of which were new.