M. Chapoutier : Le Pavillon 2017

This is laden with warm, lush plum, cassis and blackberry purée flavors that glide through atop a loamy spine, adding anise, fruitcake, baker's chocolate and worn leather notes through the finish. A seductive wine. Best from 2023 through 2038. 48 cases imported.

A damson juice nose is joined by a hint of dark chocolate and plum sauce, and also a warm stone aroma reminiscent of a young Pessac-Léognan. On the palate it's lovely and smooth, with a velvety mouthfeel, piercing acidity and super-fine tannins. It's a very long, direct, silky style that's more powerful and muscular than an average year, but retains its salinity, purity and elegance. 18 months in barriques and demi-muids, 25% new.

This is impressive, with fragrant, complex spices and violet flowers laid over ripe blackberries and blueberries. Very youthful and fresh for now. The palate has a super-rich, concentrated core of ripe dark plums and blackberries. Glossy, rich tannins are set in a ripe and plush mode. Impressive poise in 2017. Drink or hold.

Biodynamic. Cask sample. Far more fleshy, open and developed than their Greffieux and Méal, with a meaty, tarry character that makes it very tempting to drink now! Even the tannins are relatively tame, but there is plenty of ageing potential in the concentration of fruit and structure. Baked earth on the finish. (RH)

Brilliant purple. Highly expressive blackberry, cherry preserve, licorice pastille, exotic spice and potpourri scents are complemented by a strong mineral overtone. Seamless and broad on the palate, offering deeply concentrated black/blue fruit liqueur, cola and candied violet flavors that become more energetic as the wine opens up. Finishes extremely long with emphatic mineral, floral and dark fruit character, with youthful but well-knit tannins and superb tenacity.

The inky colored 2017 Ermitage Le Pavillon comes from the biggest, baddest part of Hermitage and was brought up all in 20-25% new French oak barrels. Huge crème de cassis, crushed flowers, graphite, and liquid rock notes all dominate the bouquet, and this massively rich, powerful, yet pure and classic Hermitage builds incrementally on the palate, has a wealth of tannins, flawless balance, and a great finish. Showing the sexy, expressive style of the vintage, it has some upfront charm, yet I suspect it will close down (as has the 2015) with a few years of bottle age and require a decade or more of cellaring. There are just 894 cases of this magical elixir.

Underlined by luxurious oak, the wine offers substance and silkiness, but the oaky flavors return on the finish.

Cassis and crushed stone join on the nose of the 2017 Ermitage le Pavillon. More austere than les Geffieux or le Méal, le Pavillon is rooted more firmly in granite, with crisply defined edges and firm tannins. It's impressive for sure, full-bodied, loaded with extract and almost creamy across the mid-palate, but ultimately it needs time. Give it 10 years to soften and develop a bit more charm—it has the concentrated dark fruit to carry it the distance.