Simonnet-Febvre : Chablis 1er cru "Fourchaume" 2020

Has plenty of freshness on the nose with notes more akin to red apple fruit. Decent palate: fresh, with crisp acidity and not excessively rich or ripe. Nice balance here, although it all seems to be lacking a little bit of excitement.

This Premier Cru Chablis has an exciting balance of ripe citrus fruit with vibrant mineral freshness that makes it leap and bound across the palate. Not a hint of the opulence that 2020 sometimes shows. Very clean, long finish with complex chalky character. Drink or hold.

100% Chardonnay. The Fourchaume vineyard lies on the right bank of the Serein River and covers a thin strip running approximately 2.5 km north–south, bordering the northern limits of the town of Chablis. It is divided into the sub-climates of Vaupulent, Côte de Fontenay, L'Homme Mort and Vaulorent. Vinification in stainless-steel tanks with cold-press fermentation and malolactic conversion. Matured on the lees for 12 months. In 1840 Jean Febvre, a barrel cooper from Montbard, founded the winery which is now Simonnet-Febvre. Today it remains one of the oldest and most traditional Chablis producers in the region (now owned by Maison Louis Latour). Winemaker Paul Espitalié. TA 3.1 g/l, pH 3.3, RS 0.4 g/l. Vegan. Agglomerated cork. Bottle weight 350 g. Exclusive. Available in Waitrose Cellar only. Proper Chablis without too much ripeness. Real cut and juiciness though it's arguably no cheaper than at the independents. Quite long. Well selected! (JR)

The 2020 Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru has just a slight touch of SO2 that detracts from the delineation of this wine. The palate is balanced but lacks the complexity of its peers, and it feels rather raw and a bit dilute on the finish. Tasted blind at the BIVB tasting in Chablis.

Tart citrus, English pea, geranium and baby's breath enchant the nose, complemented by a slab of limestone. Energetic and focused, the palate is laser-like, beaming notes of crushed seashell overlaid with a layer of citrus. A delicately elegant and precisely crafted wine.