Tardieu Laurent : Cuvée Spéciale 2021

Density builds in this compact red, with bitter cherry, red currant, mocha and steeped plum grounded by firm bolts of iron. Still tightly wound, with the tannins holding firm, while notes of tobacco leaf and meatiness bring a sanguine character. Very solid. Grenache and Mourvèdre. Best from 2026 through 2035. 550 cases made, 75 cases imported.

Pretty much all centenarian Grenache (just 1% other varieties) from sandy soils on Le Crau (a bit like Ch Rayas?). All whole bunch. Aged for 12 months in two- and three-year-old barrels then a further 12 months in foudre. Cask sample. Transparent crimson. Much richer, spicier nose than the Vieilles Vignes bottling. It really is like smelling history and then on the palate it’s so smooth! I am aware of the alcohol on this wine but what comes before is so fascinating, I forgive it. So rich in different elements. A wine for those who can’t get their hands on Rayas? (JR)

The 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Spéciale is cut from the same cloth, with a beautiful perfume of black and blue fruits, pepper, Provençal garrigue, and liquid violets. This carries to a rich, concentrated, full-bodied Châteauneuf with a stacked mid-palate, gorgeous tannins, and a monster of a finish. I'm not sure 2021 gets better than this. Bravo.

The beautiful aromatics are highlighted by quality élevage. The precision of Grenache enchants us in this unifying juice, which shows lovely volume without being unbalanced. The palate is caressing on the attack, then lengthened by whole-cluster fermentation.