Charles Heidsieck : Champagne Charlie Collection Crayères 1985

A rich, sumptuous bubbly, subtle in flavor and seemingly losing some steam. Yet remains bright, evoking coffee, candied citrus and hazelnut flavors, with a fine, crisp finish. Drink now. 9,000 cases made.

A magnificent profile halfway between secondary and tertiary notes, with a stunning contrast of iodine, savouriness, nougatine, silky dried fruits, walnut, hazelnut and white mushroom. Damp undergrowth and cellar scents add a real olfactory nobility. The palate is instantly savoury: autumn leaves, toasted dried fruits, porcini oil, chanterelle and hazelnut notes conceal a remarkable salty tang at the core. The finish carries you into forest-floor territory, with the smoky precision of ash and pencil lead.