Delamotte : Blanc de Blancs 2004

Vibrant, with an airy mousse and a chalky underpinning to the subtle flavors of fresh-cut apple, crunchy pear, minced ginger and Meyer lemon zest. Lithe and elegant, this makes a fine aperitif. Drink now through 2025.

This is the best Delamotte vintage since 1996, a ripe and rich wine that brings out the chalky soil character with a strong mineral content. It has weight along with a relatively high dosage that gives softness. It is balanced, fruity and ready to drink.

Tasted blind and in retrospect I am cross with myself as I didn't realise it was the Blanc de Blancs that was served. If I had the strong autolysed Chardonnay notes would have been a giveaway. This wine had beautiful balance; everything was just so, even if it may not have been the longest lived of the four 2004 champagnes I was blind tasting. A really very good wine indeed. Everything in its place, but no spring chicken. (JR)

Pale yellow-gold. High-pitched aromas of pear, lemon curd, honeysuckle and smoky minerals, complicated by suave notes of toasty lees and honey. Dry, densely packed and focused, offering spicy citrus and orchard fruit flavors complemented by sexy floral and gingery nuances. The leesy quality comes back strong on an extremely persistent finish featuring building spiciness.