Delamotte : Blanc de Blancs 2014

A finely-meshed, linear Champagne, with racy acidity and a citrusy overtone driving flavors of poached apricot, biscuit, candied lemon peel and a toasty hint of brioche. Fine and creamy. Drink now through 2026. 7,100 cases made, 500 cases imported.

From the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger on the Côte des Blancs, this well-textured Champagne shows a crisp apple freshness underlined by strong minerality. At seven years past vintage, the wine is just starting to lose its initial freshness and develop attractive toasty elements. Drink now.

While Salon is made from 100% Le Mesnil fruit without malolactic fermentation, sister house Delamotte’s vintage blanc de blancs is made from Chardonnay from each of the six grand cru villages of the Côte des Blancs, with malolactic fermentation completed. The result is a more approachable (and more affordable) wine of considerable class, especially in the restrained 2014 vintage. Clementine, yellow apple and a riper suggestion of apricot pastries meet crusty white bread and fresh almond, all held in a sleek and creamy frame, bright and narrow with a pin-point close. A fine, classically styled blanc de blancs that is just opening up towards its 10th year.

Really bright and energetic, with sliced apples and lemons and seashells on the nose. Some flint, too. Full-bodied, yet very tight and composed, with racy phenolics and bright acidity. Very long and vivid. Sort of edgy and energetic. Bright blanc de blancs. Drink now.

The 2014 Blanc de Blancs is seriously impressive. Ample in feel, Delamotte is especially rich in 2014, and yet there is plenty of freshness to balance things out. This is an especially savory style for Delamotte, and one that works so well. Dried lemon peel, pastry, almond, dried herbs and chamomile open in a beautifully translucent Blanc des Blancs that marries power and finesse. I can’t wait to see how it ages.

From the six grand crus of the Côte des Blancs, with malolactic fermentation completed, very mineral and precise on the nose and palate, at the cost of a slight austerity that is part of its style but softened by the dosage, which is just a touch pronounced.

A Chardonnay-leaning profile, with a freshness poised between dried fruits and finely buttery notes. The same toasted reduction is still there, but it’s less pronounced as the grapes are riper and more fully mature. The palate is true to this vintage, more slender than broad through the mid-palate. The taut, finely etched finish unfolds without austerity.

The Champagne opens with smoky notes, peach and apricot. The palate is luscious and fleshy, with lovely substance, round and generous, mouthwatering and harmonious.

Delamotte's just-released 2014 Blanc de Blancs has turned out very well indeed, opening in the glass with scents of citrus zest, crisp orchard fruit, fresh bread and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and incisive, with excellent depth at the core, racy acids and a chalky finish, this isn't as muscular as the 2008 or 2012, but it has real cut and persistence and should age very gracefully indeed.