Philipponnat : Clos des Goisses L.V. 1996

Readers with the requisite disposable income will have a fun time comparing the 1996 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses L.V., disgorged last year, with its immediate predecessor, the 1995. Offering up complex aromas of confit orange, coffee, toasted notes and honeycomb, it's full-bodied, fleshy and seamless, with excellent concentration, nicely integrated acids and a long, saline finish.

Lots of bread dough and rancio with dried-apple and white-pepper aromas that follow through to a full body with a tight and beautiful palate of intense yeast and fresh pie. Raw pie crust at the end, as well as almond cream and some cheese. Steely. Unique late release. Drink now.

The 1996 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. has reached a glorious peak of expression. Apricot, burnt sugar, spice, pastry, hazelnut and a whole range of reductive notes that have developed in bottle fill out the layers. In 1996, Clos des Goisses was still aged on cork (for both the original and L.V. releases). Over time, cork seems to have given the 1996 an especially relaxed, resonant feel. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: March 2021. (Originally published in May 2021)