Château Fonréaud 2023

With aromas of red cherry and bright fruit, the palate comes across tangy but bordering on tart, lacking the finesse of some of the more successful Médoc wines. However, barrel aging should soften matters, as the wine has mid-palate substance.

The 2023 Fonréaud has a vibrant bouquet, with airy blackberry and wild hedgerow scents that gain traction with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid black fruit, fine acidity, well balanced with a bright and tensile finish. This has improved during its élevage and is promising for the future.

With a touch of spice adding complexity to the black cherries, espresso, chocolate, and licorice in the nose, and on the fresh, creamy palate. It will be easy to enjoy on release. Drink from 2026-2037.

Dark ruby, purple reflections, brightening at the rim. Delicate notes of liquorice and red berries, with some fresh mandarin zest underneath, a floral touch. Medium body, hints of cooked berries, fresh acidity, a mineral note on the finish, lemony aftertaste.

55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. Delicate bouquet with wild cherry, light tobacco and graphite. On the compact palate with a soft texture, tightly knit tannic structure, fleshy extract and medium body. In the very linear finish, black-berried contours paired with finely sandy astringency.

Always an enjoyable and consistent estate, and again one of those benchmark properties to take the temperature of vintage quality. This has a pretty solid tannic frame, with juice running through it, soft black fruits; you don’t get the same depth in Listrac as you find over on the St Julien side of the Médoc peninsula, but this is thoroughly charming.

It retains its crisp signature, gaining in density and taking full advantage of this vintage blessed for the Cabernets, edging out the Merlots by a short head, 55% for the former, 40% for the latter. A balanced duo with a touch of Petit Verdot: a hint of fresh sage and assorted spices.

55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Cask sample. Aromatically reserved. Just a hint of toasted oak. Some sweetness on the attack, the oak again evident but with fresh, floral fruit behind. Slightly drying finish but it should come around. (JL)

Score: 89–91. A toasty nose, opulent with blackberry jam and freshly ground coffee, lifted by hints of rose and peony. On the palate, all these aromas return in a dense, rich, flamboyant texture, with slightly rough tannins, yet a fresh backbone that tries to rise to the surface.