René Gabriel
WITH MONTROSE AT THE TOP OF SAINT-ESTÈPHE
Incredible Meyney! Whether the 2015 vintage is a winemaker’s year or should be declared a terroir year will probably always be debated. With this fabulous Meyney, it’s likely both. Since 1999 I have consistently rated every vintage at 17 to 18 points. This time it’s the best Meyney I have ever tasted in my life. If you’re budget‑conscious and want to buy a truly great wine, you should definitely put it on your shopping list!
40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 52% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot. Extremely dark purple with lilac and violet highlights. A hugely impressive bouquet from the very first moment: lots of blackberries, black plums, dark noble woods and the first tobacco contours. On the palate, the nasal fascination continues seamlessly: deep, baroque, powerful, but with well‑judged tannins that have reached high maturity, with a persistent finish. Have I ever tasted such a brilliant Meyney? Lately there has been a series of successes rated extremely highly. This year I have no hesitation in counting it (not for the first time) among the very greatest Saint‑Estèphe wines. Tasted four times, the last during a spontaneous visit to the Château itself. There will be no better value buy in Saint‑Estèphe this year! 17: Tasted again at the Château during a vertical. The color seems a bit lighter than one would expect for the vintage. Medium garnet with ruby highlights at the rim. Open bouquet, showing rich fruit tendencies of red and black plums, good depth, nicely expansive and already indicating harmony on the nose. On the palate, soft yet demanding at the same time; the tannins show fine, grainy nuances on the tongue, giving the flow a certain character; the aromatic pressure could be a bit more intense on the finish. For the moment, it doesn’t feel like showing itself and turns a cold shoulder. By its makeup, it is a truly great Meyney. At en primeur I rated it 19/20. Right now, it delivers a solid 18/20. But as already written, it is currently introverted. This could also be a certain bottling shock. It will certainly pick up again! At the moment: 18/20. 18: Extremely dark wine‑red with almost black highlights in the center. Deep‑seated bouquet, black‑berry profile, notes of tar, Bakelite, turpentine, indicating a subtle minerality. Meaty palate, compact, demanding, showing plenty of reserves. A small block with great potential. Perhaps somewhat underestimated in its current phase. By classification a Cru Bourgeois – as a wine already pushing into the midfield of the Grand Crus. Could even gain another point. Brilliant value! (19/20).