Château Pontet-Canet 2012

Is it due to biodynamics? With the 2012 vintage, this 5ème Cru Classe more than holds its own against the Premiers Crus. What we especially love about this Cru is its radical independence. Intense aromatics, perfectly crafted tannins, superb texture, and incredible precision.

This impeccably run, biodynamically farmed estate of Alfred Tesseron goes from strength to strength. The 2012 triumphs once again with its notes of dark plum, blackcurrant, licorice and almost a hint of truffle, its full-bodied, supple tannins, and beautiful, expensive mouthfeel. Complex and deep, this dense ruby/purple-colored wine may not be at the level of the 2009 or 2010, but it is a successful wine in this vintage, and a significant wine in 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2035.

Broad and fleshy, with an alluring feel to the layers of steeped plum, blackberry coulis and raspberry reduction notes, all gliding over ample but polished tannins. Loam, tobacco and warm stone accents stay in the background for now but add steady base notes to the finish. Packs in solid fruit for the vintage, with a commensurate tug of earth. Best from 2017 through 2025.

What an expressive nose! Plump, fruit-driven, juicy cherry, blackberry, ripe cassis and rose stem. The opposite of the 2011, this is round and suave, albeit with not quite as long a finish. A juicy, bright palate with high alcohol and full body, some oak-derived coffee tones, with burgeoning touches of earth. The first vintage with 35% ageing in concrete amphorae.

This shows incredible decadence and opulence for the vintage with dried meat, black berry, blueberries and hints of mushroom. Full body, very polished silky tannins and a chewy finish. Lots of richness for the vintage. Persistent palate. This was aged 35% in cement eggs for 12 months. Better in 2018.

Dark ruby red, a purple sheen, subtle ochre brightening on the rim. Intense cassis, delicate notes of liquorice and eucalyptus, a nose between Napa Cabernet and Barossa Shiraz, with a hint of peppermint and gingerbread, very seductive, naturally a somewhat loud bouquet. Medium complexity, black cherries, a touch of fine blackberry, ripe, well-balanced tannins, no trace of over-extraction, subtle use of wood, balanced, a refined acidity, has reached an initial maturity, a discreet sweetness in the aftertaste, excellent food companion. (Drink, 2021-2040).

Very floral, dark-fruited and ripe nose; a very multi-layered palate; excellent fruit purity and breadth; finely integrated tannins; crunchy dark fruit and a very long, juicy finish—superb substance.

Fresh and lively aromatically, with spring flowers, sappy herbs, licorice, currant bud and earth, the 2012 is medium to full-bodied, tight, closed and focused, with fine, grippy tannin and a rock-solid finish. It lacks a touch of density and exuberance, but is an elegant, lengthy 2012 that needs 3-4 years of cellaring and will keep through 2032.

Not an easy vintage, but many 2012s are currently in a lovely drinking window. Dense ruby, with garnet glints at the rim. Again a rather ripe-fruited nose with an earthy-tarry backdrop, plenty of terroir, black-berried notes, malt and damp tobacco leaves reminiscent of the Maremma. Shows nice depth and extract.

PLEASE DO NOT DISTURB! Parker has it good. The samples are brought to him. So, apart from the few estates that do not release their wines externally, he can taste in complete peace without being disturbed. Writing a tasting note is a self-contained act requiring absolute concentration. “I don’t want to disturb you…,” a German wine lover — who shall remain unnamed here — whispered confidentially in my right ear just as I was between assessing the color and the nose of the Pontet-Canet 2012. I was standing at one of the many tables on the first floor of the cuviers. “… but don’t you also think this is one of the best wines of the vintage?” I allowed myself to wave him off politely without comment and continued tasting with focus. But to summarize, I could now comment on this verbal approach as follows: A) Yes, it disturbed me. Greatly! B) No, I do not think that this year Pontet-Canet is one of the best wines of the vintage. Every year the cards are reshuffled. And for every estate, everything starts from scratch. And Pontet-Canet has delivered murderously high quality in recent years. And these sensational qualities have been duly recognized by practically all the major tasters. But the 2012 Pontet-Canet is actually the exact opposite of the recent Pontet-Canets. Not truly great and — aromatically — not at all in keeping with Pauillac. And it is very dangerous to get swept up in mass hysteria and then stop questioning properly. In any case, this Tuscan-tinged, almost port-like 2012 Pontet-Canet will still have to prove itself at its drinking peak. And in doing so, I would neither like to disturb nor to make any assertions… 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Petit Verdot. Deep purple-garnet, dense at the core, lilac hue at the rim. Warm bouquet, already showing certain Amarone nuances at first, with an initially alcoholic impression, fermented tea leaves, mocha, dark roasted notes, chestnuts, raisins, and pear syrup. On the palate, rich, coming across inflated, dark malt, melted chocolate, port-like at the core, chopped figs, currants, and again prunes. The slightly brittle tannins give the wine a Tuscan affinity and thus recall a great Sangiovese. The radiating heat does not fit the vintage at all. So this is a special case. Somehow, back then I had the Cos 2009 in barrel samples similarly on the nose. Certainly a great wine, currently showing little typicity for a Pontet-Canet as known up to now. Yet at the moment this cru is so popular that one (almost) forgives it everything. I don’t want to argue with the fan club, so I very much hope it finds its path. Likely outside the classic register!

Sweet, creamy, lactic, opulent, warm bouquet, blackberry jelly, dried fruits, caramel. Balanced, elegant, fresh palate with creamy fruit, varied sweet aromatics, fine tannins, a nicely opulent structure, and a long, full finish. The wine has developed very well; on the nose it shows entirely fresh, clear aromas. In the barrel sample, it showed Amarone and slightly oxidative notes, and we feared the organic approach had been overdone. The only thing that remains is that I wouldn’t assign this wine to the rather lighter 2012 vintage in a blind tasting; I’d bet on a warm year instead. 18/20 drink - 2035

Rich tawny plum, full of warmth in colour. We asked for a 2nd bottle of this wine during the tasting, so I should warn you there might be variation, and it was not the most successful in the lineup. This was the year that they stopped having the wine entirely aged in barrel (a mix of new and one year old). Instead they brought in 100 amphoras for 35% of the production, 900l in size and made from the clay of Pontet Canet. It clearly makes a difference to the expression, and there is a beautifully nuanced, finessed feel to the raspberry, black cherry and cassis fruits, studded with saffron and sage and still gently held in place by Pauillac tannins. It makes for an interesting study in a vertical but this is not the vintage that I would most recommend to people trying to understand why Pontet Canet reaches the heights that it does. Harvest October 4 to 11.

The 2012 Pontet-Canet is medium to deep garnet colored. It has a lifted nose of fried herbs, redcurrant jelly, and raspberry leaves with hints of wet slate, tobacco, and charcoal. The palate is a little flat and tired, with dried berry layers, chewy tannins, and a slightly rustic finish. I've had better bottles recently.

A supple, charming wine with smooth tannins, good presence, medium body, and lovely length. Complex, with no greenness, as biodynamics makes the vine ripen earlier. 34 hl/ha.

Garnet-red color with light edges. An elegant, truffled bouquet also revealing nuances of tobacco leaves. A hint of graphite. On the palate, the wine is delicate with silky tannins. Beautiful sense of balance. Slender in style, the wine shows a certain fragility but also a strong sense of terroir that clearly underlines its origins. A delicious wine to enjoy today and tomorrow.

Bad bottle Wine with an overripe nose that double decanting did not protect. The palate is muted, even if the body remains caressing. Note that this is the first vintage in which the cru introduced small 9‑hl concrete vats.

This vintage marks the commissioning of 100 concrete amphorae, each incorporating soil from Pontet-Canet (gravel or limestone) in its walls, accounting for 35% of the ageing, with the remaining 65% done in wood (50% in new barrels, 15% in one-wine barrels). The result is a bouquet of incredible complexity, with notes of rosewood and graphite, and an intensely fruity profile tinged with spices. After aeration, one detects savory, bacon-like nuances with a hint of tapenade. On the palate, the texture is vibrant, structured by juicy fruit and finely chiselled tannins, delivering energy and remarkable length.

2012 is the first vintage to use amphora during the aging process. The nose opens with cigar box, underbrush, leafy herbs, black currants, and tobacco wrapper. There is a nice creamy quality to the sweet red fruits, with length, freshness, and loads of fruit on the back end. This is one of the top Left Bank wines of this mixed vintage. The wine blends 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, 13.5% ABV. Drink from 2025 to 2050.

This tastes jammy and very fruity, with tannins that are totally enveloped by the rich texture. Plummy and comfortable, it's all about ripe berries and currants. Smoky flavors come from the wood aging, and contrast with the Port-like lusciousness of the wine.