Domaine de la Chapelle : La Chapelle Paul Jaboulet-Aîné 2020

Measured, fresh and harmonious in 2020, this Chapelle is potent, fairly concentrated and quite savoury in style. Tannins are fine, plentiful, a touch dry, but they provide ample support for medium- to long-term ageing.

Even at a very young age, the expression is already well-set, both in breadth and intensity. The whole will blossom over time, but the greatness is already there. Dense and inviting from the outset, the wine boasts silky tannins and a structure that delivers salinity and freshness. A powerful, subtle, sapid wine, ready to spend a long time in the cellar.

While still a terrific wine that has come in at the upper end of my barrel-sample rating, I must confess to a modest level of disappointment in the 2020 Hermitage La Chapelle. On the nose, it's gently cedary, with crushed stone and pencil shavings accenting dark, plummy fruit, plus mocha, earth and black olives. It's full-bodied but not that rich or concentrated, with an open-knit feel and a shortage of energy and drive on the finish. Collectors may want to enjoy this over the (relatively) near term while waiting for their more-promising 2019s to mature.