Les Chorégies 2022

The 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes les Chorégies Blanc is equal parts Bourboulenc and Clairette, fermented and matured in a mix of older barrels and terracotta vessels. Scents of crushed stone accent lemon and lime scents on the nose, while the palate is on the leaner, crisper side for white Chateauneuf du Pape (it has only 12.5% alcohol), a style that might be termed "wannabe Burgundian," with a long, citrusy finish.

Warm macadamia nut and shortbread notes enrich green plum and herbs in this stylish white. A subtle tug of white tea tannins provides scaffolding as density builds toward the toasty finish, with a jolt of salty, lemony freshness. Drink now through 2028. 275 cases made, 25 cases imported.

A very fresh and fine expression, with naturalistic acidity and an elegant, cleansing mouthfeel – Châteauneuf whites can be gloopy, but this has cut and vigour, likely due to the limestone soils. The oak is a touch noticeable for now, lending some vanilla and spice, but should settle in a year or so and fully integrate. This has personality; it has the freshness and focus that many estates would envy. Very smart oak work. The second vintage made of this cuvée.

60% Clairette, 40% Bourboulenc. Whole-bunch-pressed. Vinified and aged for nine months in old oak barrels (60%) and terracotta amphorae (40%). Tasted blind. Nutty and mealy nose. Slight flintiness and lovely acidity; there is a nice frame of oak here as well. Weighty yet still carries itself with energy and vibrancy. Very young and the oak should integrate well. (AC)