Billecart-Salmon : Brut sous Bois

Fermented in small oak barrels and aged for six to seven years on the lees in bottle prior to disgorgement (dosage: seven grams per liter), the NV Brut Sous Bois is a blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay in equal parts, composed of 67% from the 2009 harvest and 33% reserve wines from the 2008 harvest. The nose is spicy, pure and fresh, delivering small red berry, white fruit and floral notes as well as pleasantly fresh oak tones to the ripe and well-concentrated bouquet. Full-bodied and rich, this is a very intense and well-structured, pure and vinous Champagne, clearly driven by the two Pinot varieties in terms of fruit and body. The Chardonnay, however, contributes freshness, finesse and a long, citrus-fresh and tightly structured finish. Tasted from lot L 390A743 44031, disgorged in October 2017. Tasted November 2018.

Fragrant, with hints of graphite, cherry blossoms and spices, revealing a firm frame of vivid acidity that's tightly meshed with flavors of blackberry tart, lemon granita and salted Marcona almond. Shows a raw silk–textured mousse that carries a chalky note on the finish. Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. Disgorged spring 2022. Drink now through 2026.

Fermented and aged over winter in second-hand small barrels and barrels seasoned in-house (although future editions will include wine from larger casks). Rich and inviting apricot and kernel notes, brown butter and nutty honey. Some soft strawberry and an appetising, tangy apple length, highly expressive but really rather polished and rounded out. One third each Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay.

A crunchy and rich Champagne with flavors of cooked apple, light caramel, nuts and cedar, as well as orange zest. The bubbles are creamy and round with a long, energetic finish. Tangy. Base wine fermented in barrels. 48% pinot noir, 32% chardonnay and 20% pinot meunier. 74% 2016 and 26% reserve wine, including the oldest wine from 2006. Disgorged in 2022. Dosage 2 g/L. Drink or hold.

(made from one-third each Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier; 6 g/l dosage; L359333 15056M): Bright yellow. Pungent orchard fruit and lemon curd scents are complemented by suggestions of vanilla, anise and smoky minerals. Toasty and silky in texture, offering juicy pear and tangerine flavors plus a deeper suggestion of candied fig on the back half. Closes sappy, focused and long, with repeating smokiness and strong mineral cut.

Strong golden yellow, silver reflections, persistent yet delicate mousse. Hints of brioche and hazelnut, white stone fruit aromas, candied citrus zest, nuances of cherries. Taut on the palate, supported by lively acidity, a delicate touch of caramel, a hint of honey, mineral finish, lingering, a substantial food companion.

The NV Champagne Sous Bois Brut pours a medium yellow to deeper straw hue, and the nose is warming and more generous with notes of toast, red fruit of ripe raspberry, spice, and espresso. The palate is rounded, with rich texture though dry, offering notes of orange peel and currant. It has a silky texture and a fairly long finish, with ripe concentration. It is drinking well now and should drink well over the next 15 years.

The Brut Sous Bois NV is 100% barrel fermented, which departs from Billecart-Salmon’s signature practice of stainless-steel cold fermentation, yet the result does not compromise freshness. A blend of 40% Chardonnay and 30% each of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier based on the 2015 vintage with 40% reserve wines, the oldest from 2006, this was cellared for prolonged aging, disgorged in the third quarter of 2022, and finished Extra Brut with a 4.9 gram per liter dosage. Opening with rich, toasty notes of apple tart, lemon zest, marzipan, butter pastry, and Manuka honey, the medium-bodied palate brings vigor and lovely acid buoyancy to a richly fruited mid-palate and a fresh, honeyed finish. For those who enjoy an oaked style of champagne, the Brut Sous Bois offers a contemplative nose and gives plenty to talk about on the palate. Enjoyable. Lot: L83880

Fermented and matured in wood before bottling, this Champagne has an extra layer of complexity and richness. It still keeps the house's dry and mineral character while adding riper spice and lime flavors. Drink now.