Larmandier-Bernier : Les Chemins d'Avize Grand Cru Extra Brut 2015

Certified organic and biodynamic. Vinified in oak casks and vats. I love the herby, aromatic, dancing-away top notes of this wine – it's like breathing in a handful of nepeta and lavender. Quite white-wine-like; it reminds me a little of an aged, barrel-fermented Lugana! Concentrated, the fruit buried deep, and thrumming with urgent life and power. Bouquet garni, wild flowers, quince skin and lime leaf. Flint and petrol contours shape the long-lasting finish. (TC)

The 2015 Extra Brut Les Chemins d'Avize Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is a broad, ample Champagne that reflects both vinification in wood and time on the lees. Lemon confit, marzipan, dried flowers, chamomile, sage and spice build in the glass. Powerful and resonant, with no hard edges, the 2015 is terrific. It's also a throwback to the style of the time, and one I must say I like a lot. This is a fine effort for the year. Dosage is 2 grams per liter. Disgorged: September 1, 2022.