Louis Roederer : Cristal 2013

Exotic hints of tangerine and candied ginger make an enticing entry to this vivid Champagne, highlighting a finely knit range of ripe green apple and cassis, with rich notes of chopped almond, brioche and lemon curd. An underpinning streak of salinity builds through the mouthwatering finish, echoing as it carries the plush, creamy mousse. This is decadence in a sleek, graceful package. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Drink now through 2033. 9,181 cases imported.

Created in 1876 to satisfy the demanding tastes of Tsar Alexander II, Louis Roederer’s Cristal has since become a symbol of luxury all around the world. Produced only in the best years, it’s made from 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, with grapes sourced from 45 of the finest lieux-dits in the region. 2013 was a late bloomer, with flowering only taking place in July after a cool spring. The summer was ideal, with long stretches of dry, warm weather. One third of the wine is aged in oak and there’s no malolactic fermentation. Vincenzo Arnese: Packed with elegant yet powerful aromas of ripe orchard fruit that merge with brioche and dry biscuits. This is a harmonious and well-defined Champagne with integrated residual sugar and astonishing acidity. Divine! Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW: Lemon coloured with a pink hue. Like a blanc de noirs, with cherry and white-fruit aromas. Balanced and suave. Builds from less to more, with an exceptionally long and complex finish. Amanda Barnes: Appealing, open-knit notes on the nose of pastry dough and apple tart. On the palate there’s beautiful concentration with lingering savoury notes. Mineral and sophisticated. Nominated by Peter Liem

A very pared-down palette: you can feel the coolness of this vintage but without any austerity. The juice is classic, long-lined and taut. It’s not broad; it’s restrained, with a beautiful dimension for this more rigorous kind of vintage.

Here is a Champagne that intoxicates you with its exotic, amber, golden notes: tuberose, musk, oud, and frankincense reach you with all the subtlety of a summer breeze. This truly great Champagne interweaves delicacy and power: the beauty of contrast and balance.