Philipponnat : Clos des Goisses 2012

Aromas of bread dough, mandarin, strawberry, raspberry and light dry earth follow through to a full body with lightly candied fruit, phenolic tension and a clear, bright finish. Mineral. Pure. Dry and layered at the end with a note of chalk. No malo. 61% pinot noir and 39% chardonnay. Drink now.

Launched 21 September 2021. Export director Thomas Jorez describes this as a wonderful vintage, very concentrated, which suits the style of Clos des Goisses: ‘we don’t make light and shy’. After a cold winter, yields were reduced by severe frost – not as severe in the Clos as in other Philipponnat vineyards because of the location – and then cold weather at flowering that led to coulure. They produced just 13,000 bottles from 5.83 ha. The fruit was ripe because the crop was so small – riper and with higher alcohol potential than in 2003. Harvested at 11.5% potential alcohol but with balancing acidity. pH 3.08, TA 7.75 g/l (cf 5 g/l in 2003 and > 9 g/l in 1996). More Chardonnay than usual in 2012: 61% Pinot Noir, 39% Chardonnay. 62% of the base wine is barrel fermented (barrels from new to eight years old). Dosage the same every year – 4.5 g/l – so that the differences are as much as possible to do with the vintage. Disgorged late March 2021. According to Charles Philipponnat, this is one of his best vintages this century. Starting this year, a small amount of Clos des Goisses will be sold on the Bordeaux Place – to try to reach more markets even if the volumes are small, and to get the wine to those who really appreciate it. The négociants on the Place will not be allowed to sell to established markets with existing importers such as the UK. This has the lovely ripe Clos des Goisses style in full: aromas of apricot, honey and toast. It is rich and concentrated and yet still has excellent freshness. Jorez points to an aroma of raspberry seed, which is spot on. I pick up raspberry sorbet and a hint of ginger as it opens in the glass. It is intense and fresh in the mouth, gently toasty. Rounded, deep and long with a lovely fruit sweetness. Creamy, powerful and yet seems gentle next to the late disgorged 1996 LV. This was a great accompaniment to truffle flatbread on the evening I tasted it. Still so young and with great ageing potential. (JH)

The 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is a Champagne of extraordinary elegance and finesse. Silky and aromatic, the 2012 impresses with its mid-weight, refined personality. Hints of kirsch, red plum, flowers and chamomile open gently in the glass. Clos des Goisses is often a rich, vinous Champagne, but the 2012 comes across as restrained and understated in all the right ways. Its aging potential will be measured in decades not years. Sadly, severe spring frost took with it a startling 50% of the crop. According to Charles Philipponnat Pinot fared better than Chardonnay. Ultimately, though, the Goisses blend is a typical two-thirds Pinot and one-third Chardonnay. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. (Originally published in May 2021)

A most subtle sublimation of power. The nose opens with apple mellowness and an immediate sense of creaminess. The palate is intense, bold yet measured; there is power and beautifully defined, flexed muscle. The mousse is supremely fine, the salty, peppery verve of fresh rye bread crumb is highlighted by a profound vein of chalky freshness. Sublime and timeless.

The Champagne shows a slightly tinted golden-yellow hue. The palate is juicy, with well-developed Pinot character, red fruits, gingerbread, leafy notes, and hints of cereals and muesli. The mouthfeel is broad and generous, with a fine mousse. It strikes the perfect balance between power and high-quality freshness. This wine is built for long ageing.

This single vineyard, one of the steepest in Champagne, produces fabulous wines. Richness restrained by the minerality from the terroir is balanced by the structured Pinot Noir fruits that bring touches of toast, spice and white fruits. Drink through 2025 at least.