Veuve Clicquot : Cave Privée 1990

Rich flavors and aromas of bread pudding and molasses mix with hints of baked peach, biscuit, ground ginger, fleur de sel and candied orange zest in this elegant bubbly, which shows lovely balance, a subtle bead and a delicate yet persistent freshness. Disgorged October 2008. Drink now through 2020.

Veuve Cliqcuot’s Cave Privée programme of setting aside respectable allocations of every vintage release is courageous, not least because vintages that don’t age well will never surface. 1990 shows breathtaking endurance – a mesmerising golden sunset of vivid brushstrokes of mature complexity.

This toasty, superbly mature wine is part of a series of releases featuring the house's cellar-matured Champagnes. This emerges from the glass with complex flavors of almond, brioche, citrus and a hint of steeliness. The majestic richness of the wine has fully justified its decades of aging.

Wonderful notes of spice, tobacco and dead leaves, carried on a supple palate that fully expresses the vintage. Gentle kirsch-like aromas and a long finish will pair beautifully with a flavoursome white meat dish. Soothing.

The 1990 is now a Champagne at its peak: it is full-bodied, with a lovely, suave mid-palate; subtle hints of development are emerging, with lovely morel notes, and a beautifully expansive finish.