Château d'Esclans : Garrus 2022

There’s a fresh, floral-accented immediacy on the nose of the 2022, followed by flattering vanilla and hazelnut from the oak and an attractive whisp of resiny pine forest. The palate is flowing, rounded and textural, with persistence underscored by fine-boned structural grip. While it matches the 2023 for elegantly contained power, it doesn’t have quite the same exceptional focus and drive. Interestingly, for Provence rosé overall, 2022 was the better vintage.

Bright young pink colour. The nose offers fine oak, roasted hazelnut, ripe citrus, wild red berries and floral hints. Very good grip on the palate, it certainly gives a “grand cru” sensation, concentrated without heaviness with elegant red fruit, good oak integration, fine extract and a very long lingering finish.

Pale rose gold in color the wine is robust with aromas of vanilla, ripe peach blossom, melon and wet stones. The palate is similarly decadent with vanilla leading the charge, it has complimentary flavors of butterscotch, brûléed peach and grapefruit. With soaring acidity and a super long peppery finish this wine will age well, drink 2025-2028.

A sturdy, substantial rosé in a flattering style, with creamed mango, persimmon and bergamot flavors cruising alongside fleur de sel and smoky mineral notes. Shows grip at the end, with white tea tannins and silky acidity driving the smoky, focused finish. Grenache, Rolle and Syrah. Drink now through 2030. 800 cases imported.

Ample, textural and flavorful. Flinty oak, apricots, minerals, nectarines and subtle grapefruit on the nose. It's full-bodied for rosé, mingling spices and herbs at the center palate. Focused, tactile and well-built. Long and flavorful finish. Drink or hold.

Full bottle 1,559 g. See earlier tasting notes on 2022s from this famous (Whispering Angel) estate. 'From a single vineyard of nearly 100-year-old vines. Entirely fermented and aged in new large French oak barrels, the powerful and elegant Garrus was at the heart of Sacha Lichine's vision in 2006 to make rosé grand'. Surely the most expensive rosé in the world? Very pale salmon pink. Much fresher Nose than Les Clans. It may be more alcoholic but those old vines give this wine more zip. In fact it's so easy, and apparently casual, to drink that it wouldn't be hard to have far too much of this 14.5% wine. Is it made expressly for billionaires' yachts where it's presumably easy to sleep it off? Or am I being too cynical? Almost certainly. It has nerve and interest and I'd happily pay a quarter the price for it, but I am sure I'm not the target market. I appreciate the tension in the wine, though. (JR)