Château d'Esclans : Garrus 2023

The 2023 Cotes de Provence Rose Garrus is a true success, offering an alluring bouquet of pomegranate, spices, ripe orchard fruits and red berries, delicately framed by subtle oaky nuances. Medium- to full-bodied, sappy and ample, it is layered and textural, with a tactile core of fruit and a touch of freshness that lifts the finish. This is a structured, sophisticated rosé that can age gracefully, promising to reveal further complexity over the next 4–5 years.

Fleshy yellow plum, cherry and clementine notes are salty and concentrated in this lushly styled, delicious rosé. Much more than a poolside sipper, this brims with range, depth and energy, while heather, chamomile and saline energy grace the drawn-out, saline-streaked finish. Grenache, Rolle and Syrah. Drink now through 2028. 3,000 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.

Lively aromas of candied peach with a touch of grapefruit and vanilla. The palate is creamy and the vanilla from the oak works well in this highly structured rosé. Drink summer 2026.

Made from a single vineyard of very old vines, some almost centenarians, Garrus is the pinnacle of the Esclan estate wines and, although it's very early days, I have a feeling that, like Les Clans, it has reached new heights in the 2023 vintage. It's liltingly fragrant and floral on the nose – a little prettier, more elegant and precise than Les Clans 2023 – while the palate has riveting purity and tension. It has succulent, scented white peach fruit and a mouthwateringly saline, mineral drive. The oak is controlled and the wine is still tightly wound, but there's no mistaking the density – or the energy, length and refinement. If you drink it this year (2025), allow it time to open up in the glass or consider decanting it.

A splendid rosé, driven and tense. It shows notes of lemon tea, melon, fresh apricots, wild herbs and some rocks. Medium- to full-bodied with bright acidity. Seductive and succulent, with a stream of acidulated fruit on the Palate framed harmoniously and funneling into the long finish. Drink or hold.