Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue : Bonnes-Mares Grand cru 2022

We tasted an assortment of barrels from the 2022 vintage: one from the southern end of Bonnes-Mares, one from the middle, and one from the north. The portion from the south showed supple, elegant results with lovely fruit and impressive length. The center shows a lovely richness and density, and the sample from the northern end of the vineyard showed more reduction, but there was lovely finesse and an elegant raspberry note. The blend should produce one of the wines of the vintage in this appellation.

This great Bonnes Mares starts cool and restrained, but expands rapidly as it moves over the palate, with delicate, spicy almond and cream character. Mouth-filling and generous yet subtle and light-footed, this is at the upper limit of medium-bodied. Then a huge wave of salty minerality comes through at the finish to give the wine a whole extra dimension and making this an almost overwhelming expression of beauty. Drinkable now.