M. Chapoutier : De l'Orée 2001

Rich and ripe, yet so elegant and refined. Full-bodied, with a creamy texture, it blends almond paste, butter, citrus and dried fruit into an intriguing whole. Smells like a sweet wine, but this wine has been fermented dry and would make a sensational match with many foods. Drink now through 2015. 555 cases made, 30 cases imported.

From a 3.5ha plot of ancient glacial alluvial deposits of lieu-dit Les Murets, this is an outrageous and addictive style. Toasted almond and marzipan notes are backed up by apricot and subtle peach. It's very full-bodied, rich and round in the mouth, and the alcohol is high but not out-of-whack. There's significant oak influence, which works well in this incredibly opulent and rich wine. The extraordinarily long finish seems to go on forever, and although the acidity is low, the gentle bitterness and sheer intensity, impact and salinity provide edge, tension and drinkability.