M. Chapoutier : Le Méal 2020

The superb 2020 Ermitage Le Méal boasts intense aromas of roasted meat, black olives, cassis and blueberries—a complex blend of fruity and savory that's more than the sum of its parts. Full-bodied and richly textured, it slides down deceptively easily for a young Hermitage of this pedigree, finishing with a flurry of soft tannins and tremendous length.

A blockbuster in terms of scale and depth, this unleashes waves of strappy black licorice, cherry compote and black plum paste stitched together with refined yet muscular tannins. Offers refreshing, enlivening highlights of menthol, anise and fresh green herbs, while the weighty, brooding core continues to show immeasurable depth and persistence. Give this time to unfurl. Best from 2025 through 2040. 284 cases made, 20 cases imported.

Explosive ripe blackberries melded with spicy oak. Very smooth and generous, shot through with a thick weave of sweet, ripe tannins. The alcohol is on the high side, but this has very impressive concentration and tannic weight – coupled with balanced acidity this promises to age with interest. I love the sweet, soft tannins, but this will take a long time to come round and fully display its terroir.

Welcome to the dark side of the Hermitage force, complete with billowing smoke and a deep well of blackberry fruit. Staggering concentration and a massive structure that’s nonetheless very precise. Enormous depth and energy at the finish which moves across the palate like a giant wave, which you the drinker are surfing. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.

On the palate, you find the powerful signature of Méal, yet with splendid freshness. It is still evolving, but in this sunny vintage it has avoided the trap of excessive heat and power.