Château Marsau 2018

Owned by Mathieu and Anne-Laurence Chardronnier in a corner of Francs Côtes de Bordeaux that has more clay than is typical for the appellation, this is packed with perfumed spice and ripe blue fruits, deftly delivered and utterly moreish. This was the first year of organic conversion for Marsau, and the season’s mildew was particularly tough, resulting in very low yields (really low, under 10 hl/ha). Despite the challenges, they crafted something delicious, fermented with native yeasts and no added sulphur. Beautiful label as well, by designer Ronan Bouroullec.

With a strong floral character, the perfume also shows hints of cocoa, dark cherry, plum, and licorice notes. Medium-bodied, elegant, lifted, and vibrant, the wine finishes with sweet, fresh cherries along with a serious dose of minerality. Close to 80% of the crop was lost due to issues with mildew during the growing season. But the tiny crop that remained produced a fabulous wine that sells for a song.

The 2018 Marsau is 100% Merlot, with a yield of 10 hl/ha. Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, it explodes from the glass with a shower of Morello cherries, red roses, black raspberries, and licorice scents, plus hints of wild sage and lavender. Medium to full-bodied, the palate delivers mouth-coating black fruits with velvety tannins and amazing tension, finishing long and fragrant.

Beautifully pure cherry, berry, black-olive and lightly toasted coffee-bean aromas follow through to a full body with a lovely center palate and purity of fruit. Lots of fine tannins. Balanced and poised. Wonderful depth. Tiny production – only 20% of the normal production. Pure merlot. From organically grown grapes. Needs two or three years to come around. Try after 2022.