M. Chapoutier : Monier de la Sizeranne 2017

Scents of cassis and red currants emerge on the nose of the 2017 Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne, a blend of fruit from across the entire face of Hermitage (but all from Chapoutier's own vineyards). It's full-bodied and concentrated, with a density not always found in this cuvée. Tannic and chewy yet mouthwatering on the long finish, it should drink well for a couple of decades.

Ripe and focused, with brightness to the plum, red currant and black cherry fruit that races through, lined with subtle alder, sanguine and iron hints. The tight-grained finish shows nice underlying tension. Best from 2022 through 2035. 150 cases imported.

This has the dark fruited, savoury character of the vintage, and it has the robust, quite square tannins too – they will take some time to settle down. An archetypal 2017 therefore, which can be underrated as a vintage, and one which will provide some real complexity and depth when it's ready. You could open now if drinking this with some robustly flavoured pieces of protein, but it will improve, and provide some delicious, textured drinking when ready around 2029.

This has rich and ripe dark berries and plums with violets and baking spices on offer, as well as a super fleshy and open-knit palate that delivers rich, succulent appeal. Drink or hold.

Saturated ruby. Deep-pitched dark fruit preserve, violet and licorice scents are accompanied by suggestions of smoky bacon and vanilla. Sweet and broad on the palate, offering pliant cassis, bitter cherry and spicecake flavors that turn spicier with aeration. In a ripe, generous style, showing solid, spicy thrust on a long, smooth finish framed by velvety tannins. In the context of Chapoutier's bottlings of Hermitage, this one delivers very good value.

The 2017 Hermitage Monier De La Sizeranne can be thought of as the entry-level Hermitage, yet it's no lightweight, wussy of a wine and has fabulous Hermitage aromatics of crème de cassis, graphite, acacia flowers, and crushed stones. Rich, medium to full-bodied, and beautiful on the palate, it has incredible tannins, flawless balance, and a great finish. This is pure class, and certainly not far off the top wines. It will keep for 25+ years.

Tasted straight from the vat after blending. Pronounced blackcurrant-driven fruit, with supple, melting tannins on the palate; a generous Hermitage that will be approachable early.

Bacon-smoky nuances on the nose; unfortunately, the oak wraps around the wine, sweetening and masking its contours. Thanks to a serious palate, quality substance and an elongated, drawn-out core of juice, ageing should bring the whole into harmony.