Billecart-Salmon : Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Rosé 2008

This crackles with acidity, a fine china-like frame for the ripe and aromatic nectarine and raspberry fruit flavors on display in this expressive sparkling rosé. Hints of red licorice, tar-tinged smoke, star anise and orange peel accent the rich fruit profile, riding the chalky mousse and lingering on the mouthwatering finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Disgorged July 2019. Drink now through 2030.

This is very vinous with aromas of iron, strawberries, old roses and geraniums. So aromatic. Full-bodied, really intense and layered with superb dryness and depth. Lots of saline and spicy character on the finish, such as clove and pepper, as well as hints of flowers and melted butter. Strawberry tart at the end. 17% in aged oak casks. Blend of 55% pinot noir from six villages (Mareuil sur Ay, Ay, Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzenay and Verzy) and 45% chardonnay from three Grand Crus (Mesnil sur Oger, Cramant and Chouilly). 9% of the blend is red wine from a parcel in the village of Mareuil sur Ay. Bottled June 2009 and disgorged July 2019. Drink or hold.

This deep salmon pink wine is a study in subtlety. It is gently fragrant and takes time to open up. At first, the nose is rather creamy, even lactic, but then, slowly, redcurrant and blood orange appear with an aromatic overtone of potentilla. The palate, with very fine mousse, exquisite texture and balance, then veers into a most Pinot-esque direction that reveals truffle and a dimension of earthiness and undergrowth. It shimmers with white pepper and has a touch of toasted hazelnut on the bright finish. A real treat. A.K.

Although a small part of this Champagne was vinified in wood, it is the rich fruit that shows the wine's quality. Touches of toast indicate the approach of maturity, and the wine is now perfectly poised and ready to drink.