Bruno Paillard : Assemblage 2008

Still in great shape, the Assemblage 2008 continues to gain in flavor while retaining its lovely brilliance.

From a fantastic vintage, the 2008 Assemblage Extra Brut (disgorged in November 2015) has a bright citrus color and shows a clear, super pure and deep bouquet with discreet, bright fruit but predominantly chalky-mineral aromas. The assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (42% each) plus Pinot Meunier (16%) is a clear, straight, lean and mineral, bone dry, tight and concentrated Champagne with a lot of energy, precision and whole wheat flavors. The finish is still restrained but very dense, deep and complex in its purely mineral expression. A great wine that can be stored for decades. It was aged on the lees for seven years.

A graceful version, with a sense of finesse, this offers a spiced profile of ripe nectarine, toast and fresh ginger underscored by Meyer lemon and chalk notes, balanced by a fine, airy mousse. Disgorged March 2015. Drink now through 2026. 1,400 cases made, 90 cases imported.

With seven years on lees before disgorgement, this wine already shows some maturity. It is rich while also having the intense acidity of the vintage. Turning to gold in color, it is balanced and dry as with all the Paillard wines, although with age that character becomes less obvious. Drink now for the fruit or until 2024.

Super fresh aromas of peaches, pastry, an array of citrus fruit, including a hint of pink grapefruit, dried flowers and a biscuity edge. The palate adds some richer fruit in the yellow-peach zone and a toasty, savory build, all the way through to roasted coffee at the finish. Drink or hold.

Disgorged November 2015. 42% each Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, 16% Pinot Meunier. Perfectly complex Champagne fruit, subtle Pinot, a touch of wood, caramel and chalk, red apple, grapey. Fresh palate, with some breadth behind the stolid and mineral notes. The mousse seems fine and opens in a mellow fashion. With air contact more and more Chardonnay. Compact, grippy. Refined acidity, savoury on the finish. Substance and texture suggest certain ageing potential.

More than eight years spent on the lees give this Champagne its fine complexity, with aromas of candied fruit and bitter almond, along with pastry and smoky notes that unfold on a long palate and a creamy mousse.