Bruno Paillard : Assemblage 2009

This is pleasingly fresh and lively on the palate, featuring a lacy mousse and crisp acidity. Flavors of white cherry, pink grapefruit sorbet and pickled ginger gain added richness from accents of marzipan and pastry. Disgorged September 2017. Drink now through 2029. 1,000 cases made, 150 cases imported.

This wine is still young, with extreme freshness from the low dosage. However, all elements are there for a great future for this taut, citrus and kiwi-flavored wine. The tense structure will soften and fill out. Drink this vintage from 2021.

This has complex clotted-cream and lemon-pastry aromas with a succulent and sleek feel that holds a wealth of supple, smoky-peach and lemon flavor. Very plush texture. Smoothly resolved and nicely balanced. Drink now.

Equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from '10 of the best terroirs in the heart of Champagne'. 20% fermented in barrel. Disgorged September 2017, then 18 months in the Paillard cellars before release. Dosage 5 g/l. Label by Swedish artist Anna-Lisa Unkuri. Very pale gold. Deep aroma that is toasty and lightly honeyed with notes of tangy citrus, mostly clementine. Full and yeasty in the mouth too, with lees richness balanced by extreme freshness. Fine and persistent mousse that has started to mellow but is still vibrant, like the citrusy acidity. Long and complex but should continue to age well in bottle for some years. Deliciously dry but not austere thanks to the full flavours and that slight honeyed character. (JH)

The 2009 Extra Brut Assemblage is a gorgeous wine that captures the essence of the vintage in its radiant, open-knit personality. Soft curves and plush, forward fruit add to its considerable allure. Although not especially complex, the 2009 is wonderfully expressive and inviting today. It has enough body and depth to develop nicely for a number of years, but also offers a good bit of freshness as well. This is such a pretty and expressive wine. Hints of dried flowers, pear and spice linger on the pretty finish. Disgorged: September, 2017.

Marked by the richness of the vintage, the 2009 is a broader, more filling wine that is best served with a meal.