Bruno Paillard : Assemblage 2015

Restrained black fruits with licorice root and white pepper. Reductive and closed, yet showing a very tight-knit structure with lemon and strawberry tension. Full body, zesty acidity and quite an astringent and austere finish. 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay. Disgorged in 2023. Dosage 4.5g/L. Best after 2-3 years of aging.

Full bottle 1,583 g. 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay. All grands and premiers crus. 25% fermented in oak barrels. Dosage 4.5 g/l after 7 years on lees. Restrained nose and on the palate very much a champagne of our times without obvious fruit or even much obvious autolysis. Very tense and introvert. But it builds towards quite a subtle, persistent finish. Very neatly put together. Citrus finish and much tighter than some Pinot-dominated champagnes – perhaps because of their emphasis on chalky terroirs. (JR)

The blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is rounded while also crisp. The Champagne is fruity, textured, layering vibrant acidity and citrus fruits. Ready to drink, it could age further, at least until 2027.