René Gabriel
00: Barrel sample (18/20): 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, production: 15,000 bottles: intense, compote-like bouquet; lots of plum, black elderberry, blackberries – the fruit load is packed and very expansive. On the palate ripe, rich, soft and opulent, a sweet play of plum mixed with creaminess and elegance, lovely length. 03: Deep ruby with purple and lilac highlights. Rich bouquet scented of ripe cherries, cloves, gingerbread, raspberries and light caramel. Silky, juicy palate with incredible charm. Already a dream as a young wine, with plenty of nonchalance. (18/20). 04: Medium-dark garnet-purple. Intense blackcurrant bouquet, coffee notes, sour-cherry touch, still very fruity and hugely peppery on the attack. On the palate substantial, well-supported acidity, slightly mealy extract, very long-lasting. For a ’99 showing an almost unnatural concentration. 07: A concentrated blast from a double magnum at the Metzgete. Simply awesome and now mature for the first time! And another double magnum right away. This time for New Year’s, with pork tenderloin en croûte. Just at the beginning of its peak drinking window. 08: A magnum in Ticino with friends. And a risotto with the very first fresh porcini. There were three of us. But it tasted so good that we soon moved on to the equally sensational 1995 Saffredi. (18/20). 11: It shows full spiciness, lots of clove, smoke and aromas of dark-roasted Arabica coffee beans. Dense on the palate with a noble bitterness indicating sufficient extraction. (18/20). 12: Medium-dark garnet, purple rim. Brilliant bouquet, beautiful roasted notes, oriental spices, Burgundian Côte de Nuits accents, mocha and fine woods, graham bread and dried plums. The palate is simply brilliant, positioned above many other ’99s, full, dense and with lavish aromatics. A truly brilliant Valandraud! Belongs to the wines of the vintages! (18/20). 13: Saturated, very dark wine-red, little evolved. Mocha, black olive paste, black bread, even traces of pumpernickel. On the palate meaty, almost illogically concentrated for the vintage (I tasted a few lighter ’99 Grand Crus from the Médoc this week). On the palate meaty, grainy, showing a lot of concentration and also a very high extraction, still needs to digest its tannins a bit, there’s also a rather coarse grain from the wood. Nevertheless, the wine is gaining and will probably only reach its true peak in four years. (18/20). 16: Production volume: 15,000 bottles. Dark color, quite dense core, still some garnet reflections at the rim. Showing a ripe, wonderfully plum-and-chocolate bouquet, then herbal tones and aromas of fruit tea, raspberry seeds, overall multi-layered and fascinating. You could sniff this for a very long time! On the palate peppery, still youthful in impression and somehow carrying more tannin in the extract than would be normal for a 1999. I was thrilled by the nose’s perfume and the breed on the palate.