M. Chapoutier : L'Ermite 2019

Marked by sensationally deep notes of crushed stone, cassis and blueberry, the 2019 Ermitage l'Ermite is a tremendous effort and a worthy rival to the wines produced in the past four vintages. Full-bodied, it's rich and restrained, expansive yet structured—just a complete wine from mouthwatering aromas to velvety mouthfeel and long, stony finish. While delicious now, I'd expect it to close up shortly, yet still be going strong two decades from now. Wow!

This delivers power, but in a refined and precise manner, with a stream of cassis, bitter cherry and raspberry coulis dotted with hints of dried flowers, singed alder and sweet savory notes. A long minerally spine ripples underneath, adding tension and cut and pulling everything together into a pinpoint finish. Best from 2026 through 2042. 13 cases imported.

Driving sparky freshness, it seems to explode from the glass. This smells somehow salty, mineral, very intense, so straight and energetic with a thrilling tension. This has an incredible, soaring power with textural finesse and freshness and extraordinary depth. A majestic wine which will be long lived. Yes, the acidity is low, but it's like saying Elvis was overweight. Elvis is still the King. Chapoutier has 1.7ha of Syrah planted in this lieu-dit, compared to 0.5ha of Marsanne. 20% new oak.

Incredibly dense elderberry fruit with raw-meat, smoked-bacon, balsamic-vinegar, mushroom and tar aromas. But there are plenty of other nuances in this astonishing Hermitage! Gigantic fine tannins support the wide-screen palate that’s packed to the brim with richness, yet remains so bright and clean. Stunning stony minerality at the almost endless finish. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.

Opaque ruby. The highly perfumed nose displays a complex array of dark fruit preserve, floral, exotic spice and savory herb qualities; a smoky mineral accent builds as the wine opens up. Shows excellent clarity and spicy lift to its profoundly concentrated cherry liqueur, blueberry, vanilla, espresso and fruitcake flavors, which slowly expand through the mid-palate. Deftly blends depth and energy and shows superb detail and mineral thrust on a strikingly long, youthfully tannic finish.

Less fruit-driven than Pavillon, more saline, a different style, a different terroir, tighter-grained; less showy today than Pavillon, but it will age just as well.